Elecro-rust removal!

Hey Guys,
Found a cool site with instructions for using electrolysis to remove rust. I haven't tried it yet, but I just bought a bucket today to try it...
We shall see.
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp#wash-soda

By Golly Tim, that looks like fun, I might try it once you have reported back that you didn't blow yourself up

Macca

In the tech section on my site Tim is my write up on electrolysis and yes, cheap and fun

tim7273 wrote:Hey Guys,
Found a cool site with instructions for using electrolysis to remove rust. I haven't tried it yet, but I just bought a bucket today to try it...
We shall see.
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp#wash-soda

Goddam!

That's cool - I'm gonna give that a go too!

I'm happy to report that this method works. I put one of my exhaust nuts (the threaded one that bolts to the cylinder that seems to be the worst-rusting part on every GT) that was covered in rust in the contraption and it took off all the rust. The chrome did not come back perfectly, but I think some time on the buffing wheel will make it look pretty damn good.
I hope you all have the same results. Let me know if you find out anything that makes it more effective.
Tim

Rit, what a great website you have! Yours is an excellent description of the electrolysis rust removal procedure.
I think it's wonderful that everyone here on GT550.com is so willing to share whatever information they have about our bikes or restorations in general. I'm so glad I found you all and look forward to much more brainstorming.
Tim

By the way, Macca, I didn't blow myself up... lol

Excellent, I will give it a go now

Macca

Lets start with several available products from either your local cycle dealer or online. In no particular order as to which is best.
1.) Kreem
2.) Red-Kote
3.) KBS Gold Standard
These kits are available several ways, complete or just the final liner coat.
Read the directions carefully and follow to a T.

Now doing it another way (the do it yourselfer way), go to your Lowe's or Home Depo and pickup a gallon of Phosphoric Acid which is used to clean the cement mixer's or to etch the cement floor during a refinish job.
Some people have used BB's. I've used 3/8" nuts (several handfulls) and dump them in and shake that baby like crazy all while twisting and turning that tank, then I use my magnet on a stick (Habor Freight, Sears, etc) to remove the nuts and dump out the rust knocked loose. Then clean off the nuts with either soap, or whatever you wish and place em back in the tank and add the water first (should be a 3 to 1 ratio of water to acid) then the phosphoric acid (warning: this stuff is nasty, take all the precaution as to goggles, gloves, and dont breath it) and do the same thing all over again. The first time without acid is to get the major rust loose the second all depends on how rusty the tank is and if the nuts are needed a second time.
Shake that tank for about 15 min's and dump that acid/water mix out, rinse with water to flush out any remaining acid and the loosen rust ( a power washer helps big time ).
Next use Acetone to flush out any oil in the tank and clean out any remaining debrie, this also prep's it for your tank liner of your choice.
Anything I've might has forgotten to mention feel free to chip in.
Steve

Thanks for the advice, Steve. I have had good luck with the BB's, but the 3/8 nuts sound like they do the trick as well! The tank liners, however, have caused me some problems in the past... they contain solvents that leach out of the coating (and into your fuel system) well after they seem to be cured enough for use. I think the problem is that, short of mounting the tank to a vibrating tumbler for a few days, you can not evenly distribute the material inside the tank when applying it even when the directions are followed exactly. So you are left with spots inside the tank with really thick layers of coating that don't cure as fast as the thinner spots. The end result, in my experience, has been the deterioration of rubber fuel system components, petcocks especially. My advice is to clean the tank inside, as you described, and find and repair by welding any leaks in the tank then use phospho or some type of rust inhibitor as a treatment to halt any corrosion. a small amount of 2 stroke oil mixed with the gasoline in the tank occaisionally will prevent any further corrosion.
Good luck to everyone. I'm sorry I've been out of touch recently... life gets in the way sometimes!
Cheers,
Tim